Sunday 13 March 2011

Journey's End...The Big Result!













Well, hello again!  I've rather missed writing this blog - it became so much a part of my walk and, even now, i read it just to remember those remarkable 3 weeks of my life last year.  Now that it is over 4 months since i crossed the finishing line on that glorious, sunny day in October, i felt that i must write and declare the enormous amount of money raised..............£37,694.83!! Actually, since presenting the cheque to the hospital, i've had yet another donation so it's really (drum roll, please) £37,769.83.  Unbelievable (my original target was £10,000 and i wondered if i'd reach that). 

It was a wonderful moment handing over the large cheque to Dr. Andy Haynes - the mastermind behind the Lymphoma Research Fund.  Mum, Dad and I turned up at the Nottingham City Hospital to a wonderful, warm reception - thank you to Barbara and her fabulously efficient admin team (and for my delicious pink cake!) who have processed every cheque and written so many letters (i stopped counting after 200+).  Particular thanks must go to the inspiring Ian Daniels who showed us around his laboratory which is really the lymphoma research nerve centre.  His enthusiasm was remarkable and the money is in safe hands with every penny going into research.  It will also completely fund a pilot project that will be potentially ground breaking in the battle to develop treatment for Lymphoma.  Hearing that news was more than i ever wished for and a great feeling.  We came away from the hospital with renewed hope and comforted by the fact that there is such an exceptional team behind my father and all the many others who suffer from Lymphoma....

...and, what now, post walk?  I found it very difficult getting back to normal life after crossing the finishing line and adjusting to an office routine in London again.  This was something i had been warned about and it took a good month to get back into the swing of things. It hit me how far i had walked when Ben and I got on the train at Edinburgh back down to London and i watched as the train whizzed past all the many little landmarks that i had seen on my journey. My sore foot (which i went on and on about) ended up being a stress fracture.  Poor old feet but, with a bit of rest, they are now back to normal.  My beloved walking boots have walked their last.  My father is keen to get them mounted in a glass case with a little plaque commemorating the distance they took me...not sure if there's any room in my flat?!  I still find myself automatically looking at the edge of roads to see if you could walk on them (oh dear) and i never thought that i would end up appreciating pavements so much!   Without question, the walk was the best thing i have ever done and easily the hardest.  To anyone who has a bright idea to raise money but feels that it's too daft or too difficult, go for it!  I am no athlete and i do remember looking at my feet and wondering if they'd ever get me all that way but they did - with a lot of support and the kindness of strangers, anything's possible.

Wednesday 20 October 2010

Final Day - Dalkeith to the Palace of Holyroodhouse - I DID IT!

Crossing the finishing line..!

Flying the flag with Ben!
 
The final walk to the front door..
 
Into the arms of waiting parents..
 Ok, before I go any further, I have to say that I did it – I crossed the finishing line and walked through the glorious gates of the Palace of Holyroodhouse – Wahaaaaay!


Luckily, after such a miserable day walking from Lauder, I had a much needed rest day yesterday. Ben came up to join me last night and we set off in stunning sunshine this morning – just the same as when I walked away from Buckingham Palace all those weeks ago. I had come full circle weatherwise and we had definite springs in our steps (it was also seriously cold so we had to keep moving!) when we arrived at Dalkeith for the last part of my journey. I had a really easy day today – ‘only’ 7 miles and we ambled along the A7 into Edinburgh. I felt an extraordinary sense of relief mixed with nostalgia as I went through the usual routine of buckling up the rucksack, filling up with water, zipping all my kit up and putting on my loyal, well worn boots. Soon I would be back down in London, back to reality but not just yet – i was going to savour every last mile. The walk went too quickly and Ben and I had to ‘kill’ time a bit to ensure that i was on schedule to arrive at Holyrood at the agreed time. We had to pop into shops and buy supplies and loiter in the sunshine and admire the view. We got lots of funny looks as Ben took photos of me standing and grinning ear to ear underneath the ‘Welcome to Edinburgh – the Inspiring City’ sign. I couldn’t stop smiling. My body felt tired – almost as if it knew that i didn’t have to walk much further and it was time to relax at long last.

Then Ben left me on the Old Dalkeith Road into the city and i walked the last bit on my own. I knew that my family and friends were waiting at the gates and I took a moment to soak in the feeling of sheer elation. This crazy idea that I had dreamed up one evening in the bath had amounted to this incredible adventure, not to mention an enormous amount of money (£30,000 and still going) for the wonderful Lymphoma Research Fund. I felt like I was sleep walking through the busy crowds of shoppers and I had to pause at the top of the Royal Mile and take a deep breath. My journey was nearly over and I had come so far. I told myself to remember this moment and I set off down the old cobbled street towards Holyrood (rather slowly actually as I imagined slipping over a few feet from the gates which would have been a bit tragic really). Then I saw all the faces of my family and friends waiting for me – Mum, Dad, Ben, my godmother Morag and a few of the wonderful friends who walked with me – Ioni, Philly, Rowena and Katie. There were cheers and clapping and a group of Holyrood staff – all dressed in their very smart tartan and waving Union Jack flags. I couldn’t focus properly and I felt the tears roll down my cheeks as I walked towards the gates and (I LOVED this bit) pushed away the ribbon across the gateway with my chest (Olympic runner style!) I pushed through the ribbon and straight into the arms of my waiting parents. I said to my father (the inspiration behind all of this) “I did it – I told you it was just a walk and boy was it a long one!” Huge thanks to the fabulous team at Holyrood and for their warm welcome and delicious tea of chocolate cake and champagne. There are so many ‘thank yous’ to make and I’d rather not risk sounding like an Oscar recipient so I will just thank my parents for their unending support despite having to put up with their daughter risking her life on a daily basis and not dismissing the idea when I first mentioned it. My father is the reason this walk ever happened and his bravery has been my constant inspiration...and to my mother for her positive thinking and courage (and for being a brilliant ‘Director of Finances’ !) Thank you to my brother Charlie who was much missed today but flying back from Sydney especially would have been a real extravagance! He got me through the first 2 days and this walk was never just ‘mine’ – it was ‘ours’ after all we’ve been through as a family .....ok, I DID do the hard graft I suppose! My final thank you goes to my wonderful Ben (lucky me), without whom this walk would never have happened and I’d probably still be stranded on the roundabout of the A19. His guidance and reassurance these past few weeks have got me through it all – not to mention his patience (I did telephone a LOT of times asking for an alternative route and a way out of whatever wrong turn I had taken!)

And finally to all those many people who have supported me and donated so generously. Every penny will make a difference. The battle against cancer is an ongoing one but it is not a lost cause. The wonderful staff who treat my father and others at the Nottingham City Hospital are true heroes. We, as a family, will always be in their debt.

Monday 18 October 2010

Day 24 - Lauder to Dalkeith

Oh boy, today was tough.  Scotland had to throw the elements at me as a last slap in the face before journey's end.  The weather was AWFUL- pouring rain and really cold.  The rain set in early on and the long climb over the hill of Sutra seemed to go on forever. My much loved coat is now a bit useless in torrential rain and i could feel myself getting wetter and colder as each hour passed.  The last straw were my wonderful, thick gloves which got completely soaked and my hands started to freeze. (i have the circulatory Raynauds disease in my hands which means that i shouldn't spend too much time in freezing cold weather but hey ho - bit late now).  Every time a lorry passed us the spray would pour into our faces as if we'd been set upon by an unruly hosepipe - and it didn't let up!  On we plodded and, to add to the miserable scene, my right foot became more and more painful until i was limping along looking rather pathetic really.  Still, i willed myself to keep going and thought about all the people, like my father, who suffer much worse discomfort on a regular basis and put up with endless chemotherapy and treatment without complaint.  I pulled myself together, cursed my wet feet, hands and upper body (the good old waterproof trousers never let me down so at least one bit of me was dry) and just kept on plodding.
I have to say an enormous 'thank you' to my friend Katie who was an absolute star and endured the weather, carried my backpack most of the way (she's a saint) and made me laugh all the way to Dalkeith when i could have so easily have sat on the side of the road and sobbed!  Thank you to the lady at the B&B near Pathhead (the only place for miles around) who let us come in and shelter for a little while and another thank you to the lovely shopkeeper who opened up her cafe JUST to give us some hot chocolate and marshmallows (yum).  These people are the reason I'm still here plodding and feeling positive - the kindness of total strangers has kept me going.
As we were approaching the outskirts of Dalkeith (at long bl**dy last) the sun appeared on the horizon and I got my first glimpse of Arthur's Seat and Edinburgh Castle.  I simply couldn't believe my eyes.  I had nearly done it.  The countdown had truly begun...

Day 23 Ancrum to Lauder


A day late - sorry - couldn't keep my eyes open last night...

I woke up this morning and pulled open the curtains to the most beautiful sunrise over the Scottish hills.  What a start to the day and despite the fact that I was hobbling around like an old woman, I couldn't wait to get outside (sucker for punishment!)  It felt so good to be in the Scottish countryside and I began to allow myself to finally relax and enjoy my walk.  Edinburgh was in my sights, I hadn't fallen into a ditch and twisted an ankle, my journey was nearly over and I felt an enormous sense of gratitude.  I was grateful to be alive (!) and grateful to my legs for getting me this far.
Being a Sunday, the roads were relatively quiet and I had an easy walk along the A68 through pretty towns such as St. Boswells.  Then the road turned a bit hairy so I managed to navigate myself off the main road and through some quieter lanes.  It was almost as if my body knew that I was nearly at the finish as I kept up a good pace and my back didn't seem to mind the rucksack.  I didn't really stop - just kept on walking.  Luckily I found a parallel road off the A68 about 7 miles south of Lauder and it was perfect - rolling fields and farmland, no traffic and a pretty straight road.  I had loaded up on painkillers to avoid having to deal with my dodgy foot and I plodded along completely content.  Thank you to Rowena for joining me for the last few miles and for, bless her heart, bringing a box load of chocolate biscuit cake.  I am now happily parked in the Black Bull Inn in Lauder and even managed to stay awake during supper - I feel like I could sleep for a week though...

Saturday 16 October 2010

Day 22 Byrness to Ancrum

Byebye England!
What a day!  I am typing up my blog in Scotland - hooray. Today was a very tough day physically as my right foot (this is now a very boring subject and i must stop writing about it but it's VERY sore) started playing up and I felt tired before I'd even started walking.  The A68 from the hotel was awful - not very big verges and it meant walking a few steps and pulling right in and stopping to let the traffic pass me safely which was slow going and tiring.  I couldn't even look at the glorious view as i kept having to concentrate hard.  Just as i was feeling a bit weepy (it had all caught up with me a bit) the cloud cleared on the summit and, like opening the curtains, it revealed the border into Scotland.  I stopped in a lay by, pulled myself together, did a few half hearted stretches, cursed my bl...dy foot, munched an entire chocolate brownie and started walking up the last hill.  It was a slow ascent but i fixed my eyes on the scottish flag and willed myself to just keep moving forward.  I felt rather emotional as I took the last few steps to the top and saw some friends of my parents waiting for me with open arms and another boot load of scones (hooray - more scones!!) I had actually made it to scotland with no broken bones or any dire injury. It's incredible what the body can do when you will it to keep moving.  I figured if i just kept putting one foot in front of the other - however slowly - i'd get there eventually.  I took huge pleasure in putting one foot in England and one in Scotland and then bouncing backwards and forwards (as much as you can bounce with a full back pack) across the border until i got a few curious stares from a couple of bus loads of tourists.
First view of Scotland
I was joined by Philly, a friend of the lovely couple I am staying with (huge thanks all round) who got me through this afternoon with her positive thinking, excellent map reading and energy.  Thank you Philly if you are reading this!  we managed to walk off the A68 for a while which made all the difference.  I found myself limping into Jedburgh and the outskirts of Ancrum so I downed a few more painkillers.  Only 45 miles to Edinburgh - come ON feet!
( Thank you to Carol at the wonderful Redesdale Arms for her donation, fabulous breakfasts and warm welcome. )

Friday 15 October 2010

Day 21 - Carterway Heads to Byrness

I must admit it made an enormous difference having a rest day yesterday.  My feet and my brain are on quite good terms now and the blisters have almost gone.  My main battle is with my right foot and the muscles are really beginning to protest - especially when I hit the afternoon and mile number god-knows-what ( I stopped counting a while ago).  Ben drove me into Hexham to buy some supplies and we even managed to stop off at the old roman site nearby which was fascinating - lots of fun posing in the old roman baths and walking down into the old barracks. This is real Hadrians Wall country.  I get a huge amount of pleasure from the fact that the distance already walked amounts to the same as walking up and down the Wall 4 times!  In fact that's another mind game i've made up to keep me amused when I'm walking - the equivalent walks to match my mileage - my favourite is I've tramped a distance which is over 3 times around the whole of the M25!

Today's walk was easily the most attractive.  Ben devised a brilliant route that took us off the A68 and through magnificent country - not a car in sight and endless rolling hills and big skies. It is very wild up here and stunningly beautiful. I felt very tired today - my body is beginning to feel the effects of all the mileage but I perked up after plenty of sugar in my system - flapjacks and milky ways work the best.  It also made a huge difference having Ben with me (doing ALL the navigating - much safer all round).  We stopped off at a local pub for a drink and then found ourselves losing a bit of time which meant walking the last bit after sunset and through the forest.  Still, it is another day done and I really am on the home straight now.  To think i will be crossing over the border tomorrow into Scotland!  It always seemed so far off and out of reach but the countdown to reaching Edinburgh is now underway - I just have to be very careful not to slip or fall into a ditch and ruin my chances of a flying finish.  I also have to navigate a nightmare set of hills.  That means a bumper size pack of milky ways...

Thursday 14 October 2010

Day 19 Carterway Heads to Colwell

If anyone is heading north on the A68, I highly recommend staying at the Manor House Inn - the views are stunning and we couldn't have got a better welcome after a weary day's walking - plus, and this is a very important point, their chocolate ice cream is to die for!  I only wish I hadn't been so tired otherwise I would have gone for another walk (for fun this time!) and taken in the beautiful views properly. Will have to go back one day.
It was also really nice being able to leave the front door of the hotel  this morning and set off on my walk without having to arrange a lift.  The road was fine to begin with - slightly hairy around the corners but with enough grass verge to leap on to when the lorries passed. I felt on top of the world as I walked up the hills on to the moors and so lucky to be in such a beautiful place, alone with my thoughts and away from it all with blue sky on the horizon and my goal just out of reach.  I began to reflect how lucky i had been to be able to do this challenge and part of me thought, curiously (as I sweated up YET another hill!), how much I will miss it when it's all over and yet how much I was longing to finish and see the front gates of Holyrood with my family and friends waiting for me.  What had seemed so far off and unattainable now seemed possible.  I got a kick every time i passed a road sign to Edinburgh and the miles started falling away - oh joy, only double figures now!  The novelty of taking a photo of EVERY road sign wore off after a while though.
I made steady progress and passed lots of villages and plenty of houses which I would quite happily have bought.  The great joy of this route is that there isn't much navigating to be done and therefore there is less chance of getting lost - always a bonus- (in fact there really was no excuse with my gps as back up).  I stopped to buy a sandwich at a tiny little shop and told the nice couple about my adventure.  They were so encouraging and ended up giving me a donation and plenty of chocolate to last for ages -well, at least till the next day anyway.  I walked down a pretty dangerous road in to Corbridge (another place a highly recommend visiting) and parked myself on a well positioned bench right in the middle of the bustling town and munched my packed lunch quite happily. I saw a cafe offering 'tea and a tipple' which i really couldn't resisit (!) and sat down amongst all the much better dressed locals relishing my cappuccino- I had rather forgotten what it felt like to be civilised and felt a bit self conscious in my muddy boots and various shades of walking khaki!  (Going back to London will be pretty bizarre - rather like Crocodile Dundee let loose in New York.)
I pressed on down little lanes to join the A68 north - greatly boosted by the fact that Ben was driving up from London to join me.  The roads got steeper and steeper as i headed north towards Hadrians Wall.  I reached the top and checked my map and then got very excited at what I thought was the famous ruined Wall only to discover that it was a local farm's boundary (oh dear) - my disappointment only grew when I did actually reach the old roman site only to discover that they had built a massive roundabout and hotel over the old gate and there was nothing left.  I lost interest and put my camera away - trying to ignore the fact that my foot was starting to hurt.  I reached the remote moors of the Redesdale Valley and stared straight down the old roman road which seemed to go on and on and on.  It was pretty hard work walking along the roads and stopping all the time to let traffic pass.  I started to get quite nervous and aware that it would get dark early and I really was in the middle of nowhere so if I fell into a ditch it would be curtains.  Eventually, I found a little village and sat in an old bus stop.  I know when I'm beaten and my right foot wouldn't move anymore - I had been on my feet for 8 hours non stop with a full pack and I was exhausted. Then, to my huge relief, my knight in shining armour (Ben) appeared from around the corner and scooped me up off the grass verge (have I already said he's my hero? Oh well, I'll say it again).  I couldn't walk another step.  Thank god it's my rest day tomorrow.  

Tuesday 12 October 2010

Day 18 witton le wear - Carterway Heads

I am sitting on a comfy sofa in the wonderful Manor House Inn on the side of the A68 with far reaching views over the beautiful Northumbria countryside (yes, I've made it to Northumberland- hooray!)  I bounced over the border of County Durham into Northumberland marvelling at the fact that the next border will be from England to Scotland.  This jubilation doubled when, with a yell from Bugs, we spotted our first road sign to Edinburgh (103 miles!). 
I am also very sunburnt (so much for leaving my sun cream behind because it seemed like a needless additional weight in my pack) and slightly dozy from tiredness and too much sun but greatly cheered by the prospect of a large dinner and glass of wine!
The roads haven't been too bad and I've got into a rhythm of walking on the tarmac and leaping on to a verge when traffic is approaching.  I sweated up the hills (oh boy there are a lot of hills) and felt a few more blisters appearing but the scenery was so beautiful today that I really couldn't get demoralised.  We stopped in a little village for a breather and chatted to the local shop owner who declared that "we aint seen nothing yet if you think the hills are bad here" - oh great.  Tomorrow will be tough as it's uphill all the way but at least i'm rewarded with a spectacular view at the end of it all.  Huge thanks to Bugs for taking my pack up the hills in the last few miles when my feet and back couldn't take any more and for making the massive effort to join me in the middle of nowhere. We spent the whole of this afternoon planning what to eat tonight (passes the hours) and now, oh joy, we can eat our way through the menu..!

Another thank you to everyone who has sent me encouraging texts and emails - they really do get me up those endless hills.

Monday 11 October 2010

Day 17 Dalton on Tees to Witton le Wear

Another day 'in the can'!  It felt really good to leave the outskirts of Darlington today and head off into the hills.  I found a great cross country route with beautiful views and friendly locals.  Crossing the A1 dual carriageway heading north was a bit of a highlight too. I was joined by my friend Bugs at lunchtime who had come all the way from London and clearly hadn't been put off by the last time she joined me (memories of wading through rivers and mud and navigating round Bedford) and we set off in bright sunshine with a spring in our step.  Actually, I can't really 'spring' at the moment as my right foot isn't in a very good way.  I thought it was all over this morning as I set off and every step hurt.  However, after another dose of strong painkillers, I gritted my teeth and got going.  I now realise that I have to get my best  mileage done in the morning whilst the painkillers kick in which is a bit worrying but never mind- Edinburgh is getting closer so I can't stop now and hopefully I won't do any permanent damage!
I then got a call out of the blue from my friends Michael and Helen Lancaster who announced that his parents were on their way with a boot load of tea and scones (more scones - yum- I could get used to eating these every few miles to get me up to Scotland).  So very many thanks to Joyce and Harvey for the best cup of tea ever - it hit the spot and made me walk faster! 
After that, I felt even more cheered by the weather, the kindness of people and the most beautiful scenery around every corner... and then it all went a bit pear shaped...
We walked along the grass verges down a steep hill and were only 3 miles away from Witton le Wear when my foot started hurting again so i slowed down limping slightly and tried not to wobble too much on the uneven ground and fall into the road (!)  Suddenly, out of the blue, a van raced past us at top speed and threw a bucket (I think - too fast to see properly- it could have been a VERY large bottle) of water at us - which hit me straight in the face (a perfectly calculated direct hit), in my eyes, up my nose and all over my hair so I was literally dripping wet.  It was such a shock and our immediate reaction was "why?!" and "is it water?"  Luckily it was water and not something more sinister but it ruined our afternoon of positive thinking and made the last few miles a bit demoralising (and damp).  However, we have now both perked up after an enormous supper (food works it's magic again) and i am determined not to let the incident get me down.  It's bad enough worrying about the traffic without having to worry about drivers throwing things out of their windows at me!  What a shame that people have nothing better to do than terrorise perfectly innocent walkers - anyway rant over and I feel MUCH better!  Onwards to Northumberland - can't believe it - roll on Scotland...

Sunday 10 October 2010

Day 16 - Thirsk to Dalton on Tees

I set off in bright sunshine - always a good start and walked up the main darlington road.  The road was pretty busy but i managed to keep up a fairly good pace.  i've got into a routine now where I walk on the road if it's straight with no corners and then nip up on the verge as soon as i see a car.  It's pretty tiring too and there's no way you can plug into an Ipod or daydream as you've got to keep your eyes open for traffic all the time.  It also gets pretty monotonous hearing the constant traffic but my fault - I was determined to do the most direct route possible to Edinburgh and that means the main roads.  Still, I congratulated myself on finding a cross country route eventually and walked through beautiful scenery.  The other danger is tiredness as it slows down your reactions.  It's a bit like feeling permanently jet lagged - or drunk.  I stopped in a village and met a really nice woman who had spotted me walking miles back when she passed me in her car. She asked me if I'd walked far to which i'd replied "from London" which always gets a reaction and is really satisfying!  I explained what i was doing and why and she told me about her friend who was recovering from cancer.  She then sent me off in the right direction (amazing - i didn't get lost today).  Later that afernoon, just as i was slowing down and wondering about digging into my emergency food supplies, I saw a car parked along the road from me.  It was the nice lady with, can you believe it, a wicker basket full of scones and a flask of tea!  I couldn't get over it.  The kindness I've experienced from complete strangers on this journey has been overwhelming - and very reassuring.  It was just the boost i needed and I actually ended up going past Dalton on Tees and on to Croft on Tees (limping but never mind- I was still moving forwards)and  took great pleasure at walking over the little bridge that crosses the border from Richmondshire to Durham.  Thank you to Bill and Belinda Goyder for collecting me and looking after me so beautifully.  I am now nursing some sore muscles and very sleepy but tomorrow is another day as they say...

Day 14 York (Shipton) to Thirsk (Day 15 - Rest Day - hooray!)

Back online and so to Thirsk (2 days late but never mind)..

I was worried by two major problems this morning - firstly, my feet (this is an ongoing, boring subject but you become quite obsessed with your feet when you know that you've got to rely on them to get you another two hundred and something miles up north!) and the other main issue was the thick fog that had descended over the Yorkshire moors overnight.  Visibility was now nil and the prospect of the A19 (which was bad enough in bright sunlight) and heavy traffic was very scary.  Even with my delightful, glam (not) high vis, bright yellow waistcoat, there was no way i could risk marching up the main road.  So I navigated myself east of the A19 and across beautiful yorkshire countryside instead.  I felt like i was walking through a novel and that, at any moment, Heathcliff would appear on the hillside through the mist.  I walked up and over the moors and through pretty little villages.  The fog gradually became thicker and showed no signs of letting up so I kept well into the side of the road.  Suddenly, as i turned a corner, the mist cleared and I got such a fright as the magnificent, brooding ruins of Byland Abbey jumped out in front of me - the spooky remains of the ruined building rose up into the sky and towered over me.  I kept on walking north and met up with my friend Charlotte who gamely agreed to walk the rest of the afternoon with me and brave the main road into Thirsk.  Not easy as the verges were pretty rough so we plodded along, trying not to waddle into the ditch or, even worse, into the path of a passing lorry.  Eventually, with Thirsk in our sights, I ground to an ungraceful halt - my right foot was playing up again. We found a bench (these pop up JUST when I need them -it's uncanny - doesn't matter where I am or how remote) and sat munching chocolate bars until I picked myself up and hauled up my rucksack (i'm convinced it's getting heavier) and limped to the nearest tea shop in the Thirsk Market place.  Food is another favourite subject and the great highlight of the day.  You finish one lot of supplies and you then spend the next hour or so planning your next munching spot.  In fact, i play a mind game with myself and stagger the hours by allowing myself a flapjack after 4 miles, a mars bar after the next 2 corners and so on.  Works brilliantly. 
On my knees in relief and really chuffed that London was that far away!!

Huge thanks to Jane Scrope and her daughter Emily for looking after me so wonderfully for 2 nights- it was hard to leave and a major shock to the system getting going again after my luxurious rest day!

Thursday 7 October 2010

Day 13 - Selby to York

Hooray - i made it to York!  i am now officially half way.  The sight of York Minster rising up over the horizon was truly wonderful and i had to walk around it several times just to let it sink in.  The Minster was always my half way goal and the point when I could really feel that i was making progress and the finishing liine wasn't a distant dream.  A friendly local policeman took some photos of me and announced to a group of unsuspecting tourists that "that this girl had walked ALL the way from London for cancer which is a hell of a long way!"  His wife had just recovered from Lymphoma so my walk really hit a note with him.  This has been one of the most moving things about my 'epic walk' as nearly everyone i've spoken to (taxi drivers, passers by, pub landlords, bus drivers, shop keepers - everyone) knows someone close to them who has cancer or had cancer in one form or other.  Hearing their stories - some heartening, some tragic - has spurred me on and made me ignore the bl**dy blisters and keep plodding! 
I am typing this with a very large g&t in my hand (oh bliss) thanks to the kindness of Arthur and Charlotte French who rescued me from the side of the road.  Today's route was the most beautiful so far as it was largely cross country on the Trans Penine Trail.  Perfect - no traffic except for the odd bicycle. I then crossed York City centre heading north on the A19.  I have to confess that today was also the most painful - my feet were really sore and the ever present blisters flared up and exhaustion set in at about mile 17.  The last straw was having to navigate off the blasted A19 and walk out of my way to get into Shipton (my destination).  I loaded up on Ibuprofen and hobbled along through little villages cursing the main roads.  Still, I haven't broken anything, I'm on target and I am over half way.  Here's hoping that my feet hold up tomorrow...

Day 12 Skellow (Toll Bar) to Barlby

Sorry - published a day late but beaten by lack of phone reception and exhaustion last night so here goes..

After a great night's sleep in a motel on the side of the A1 (yes, really, the wonders of triple glazing) and an enormous Little Chef breakfast with mum and dad, I set off in perfect weather conditions.  After yesterday's fiasco and having consulted my brilliant, expert navigator (Ben), I re-routed myself west of the A19.  I have now accepted that no day is going to be straightforward and that my routes are never going to be set in stone as you just can't tell what it will be like until you start walking. Either i'll take a wrong turn (actually that's going to happen every day), the footpath will run out or a pavement / verge will disappear or the local council will decide to close a road and build a whole lot of new ones (that's happened 3 times so far and causes all sorts of navigational problems!)
Today's route took me across the inevitable muddy fields past bemused looking cattle, down long windy 'Mr' Men' lanes and endless bridges over roads and railway lines.  I had my full back pack on today and I really felt the weight and I muttered quietly to myself as my blisters started  playing up again. Eventually I hobbled into Selby, taking the pretty Trans penine Trail along the river and then, at long last, over the bridge into Barlby where I collapsed, sweating, on a bench.  Another day done and I am greatly cheered at the thought of seeing York tomorrow - now I might just make Edinburgh!

Tuesday 5 October 2010

Day 11 - Worksop to Toll Bar

Well here I am enjoying a much needed cup of tea at a friendly local Little Chef. Cor this is getting tough! As I found out today, navigating through the Doncaster area is pretty tricky - more suited to travelling by car than on foot. I started off in good weather and good spirits and pretty much on target but it was when I reached the outskirts that I got into trouble. To cut a long story short an area which will remain nameless turned out to be a bit frightening so following my motto of safety first, I reluctantly took a bus sideways into Doncaster (hopefully sideways isn't cheating) and got myself back onto a road North, navigating through local towns and staying off the A19 which didn’t have a footpath.


While I was pausing at a bus stop (not taking the bus!) a group of schoolgirls passed me and having asked me for money one of them threw a handful of conkers through a telephone box window, smashing it spectacularly. I decided to make a swift exit from the scene of the crime and strode forth hoping that I looked like I knew where I was going.

The good news is that I made it to my hotel, (and past my planned end point for the day), unscathed! The old blisters are better but I can feel some new ones making themselves known. Tomorrow is another day, aiming for Selby...

Monday 4 October 2010

Day 10 - Rest Day

Typical - the weather's perfect today!  However, i'm thoroughly enjoying putting my feet up, drying out all my kit and trying to prepare myself for the next leg of my journey.  I will do my best to update this blog by my phone as much as possible - that's if i can work out how to do it instead of relying on people's laptops!  Onwards to Yorkshire and beyond.....

Day 9 - Thurgarton - Worksop (Hooray - back on target!)

I made it to Worksop - hooray!  We had the worst rain ever today - non stop, torrential, constant cloud burst type of rain - ALL day.  This made visibility really bad and Louise and I had a real battle of wits to stay safe.  The roads that we had to take looked perfectly tame on the map but, in reality, were very dangerous.  Lots of bends, hardly any grass verges to leap on to.  This is my ongoing, worrying problem. I must admit that i did not expect to come up against such a constant set of challenges - over and above the actual business of walking the daily 20 miles.  It makes it twice as tiring and I am genuinely grateful to be alive at the end of the day!

Sunrise over Nottinghamshire

Eventually after traipsing along a lethal road, we found ourselves taking cover under a tree, right on the edge of an MOD training ground (which wasn't, I hasten to add, marked on my map).  My phone and reception failed and it was too wet to change the battery. After some emergency Dairy Milk rations (i'm not quite sure why but chocolate really does help in a crisis) we heard some gun shots and realised that we were very close to a firing range!  Last straw - I took the decision to be rescued and Louise's brilliant friend Lizzie (Lizzie, if you are reading this - you're an angel - thank you!)  picked us up off the road and drove us to the nearest tea shop about a mile down the road.  Yes, it was technically cheating but i really didn't care - when it's a decision between taking a lift or staying alive, it's not a difficult one to make!  After an artery-hardening, delicious hot chocolate, Louise and I attempted to dry off and calm down a bit.  The rain was getting steadily worse but we picked ourselves up and marched the last bit to Worksop - singing stupid songs from Abba which made us feel MUCH better.  Louise, you are a star and I can't thank you enough for putting up with the rain, the roads, the scary drivers and your moaning cousin!  Another big thank you to Sally and Henry Machin for picking us up, feeding us and lending us clothes- and generally making us feel human again.  Oh joy -i'm back on track and on schedule which is great for morale.  I am about to buy a pile of OS maps for the rest of the journey - despite the wonders of technology and the brilliance of GPS, you just can't beat a good ol' fashioned paper map!  

Saturday 2 October 2010

Day 8 - Garthorpe - Thurgarton (southwell)


What a beautiful day - couldn't have been less like yesterday - bright blue sunshine (bit sunburnt).  Here's me with mum and dad - my brilliant back up crew.  Plus a photo of my much needed blister repair kit! I made up a lot of mileage today but still just short of my target (2-3 miles)- i've decided not to count the miles yet but I reckon we walked approx 23.  It's a bit unreal thinking that i've clocked up at least 150 miles already.  My language's completely changed and i start saying things like "oh, it's not far - only another 6 miles or so!"  When this is over, i'm going to sit on the sofa and declare that i've done my quota of walks for at least a year...actually i may be reduced to a hobble anyway and high heels will be a distant memory!  Despite having good intentions and quite a lot of energy left late this afternoon, i was defeated by my blisters. I couldn't walk another step and collapsed on the side of the road in a heap, my legs complaining and my muscles throbbing.  I was so pleased to see my father and my brother drive up.  Huge thanks to my cousin Louise and friend Charlotte for getting me through today and putting up with the pretty hairy roads.  I really am not exaggerating when I type that we are lucky to be still here.  A maniac driving an enormous horse box forced us into some bushes and I swear his wing mirror missed my head by a matter of milimetres.  It was very close - too close and we were all pretty shaken.  It amazes me how some drivers have no concept of how to drive when there are people walking on the side of the road.  Safety comes first and I have always obeyed the rules but today was un-bel-iev-able - the main country road was like a race track and cars actually accelerated past us! Anyway, i'm still here and still plodding.  Pretty tired- one more day to get through before a MUCH needed rest day.  Let's see if i can repair the blisters and actually make it to Worksop tomorrow- i'll give it a good try!

Friday 1 October 2010

Day 7 Rockingham (Rutland Water) - Garthorpe



Today was a good day!  It could have been a really bad day as I started off tired and with a nasty set of blisters on both feet plus it was starting to rain.  However, with my feet thoroughly bandaged with Compeed (wonderful stuff), i reluctantly pulled the boots back on and started walking.  Ben had created a really nice route for me, off the main roads and through little villages.  I checked in with Ben on the phone as usual and turned my GPS on so he knew where I was at all times. After about 6 miles of steady walking (Ibuprofen came to the rescue yet again) i was making reasonable time.  With about 10 miles to make up on my schedule, i felt the pressure a bit today and decided to fill up on painkillers and really go for it.  The rain got more and more heavy and i started to trudge up a hill cursing the weather and wouldn't it be nice to just have a bit of a lucky break?! "All in the name of charity, I kept telling myself!"  Just as i was walking up a hill, i felt a car slow up behind me.  My heart sank a bit and I kept on walking hoping that it was just a local asking directions.  I couldn't believe it when i turned round - there was Ben!  He had driven all the way up from London (which i have to add at this point- is a VERY long way as i've walked it!) and surprised me.  I had no idea at all and it was just the most wonderful, morale boosting surprise.  My hero! We then walked through incessant rain all day- it didn't let up once and soon we were both soaked to the skin. It didn't dampen our spirits though and i ended up doing my longest day so far (approx 22 miles - in fact i might round it up to 23 as it makes me feel better) which I really didn't expect having looked at the state of my feet.  I now have the weekend to make up the rest of the time - here's hoping for better weather....

Thursday 30 September 2010

Day 6 - Finedon (Kettering) - Rutland Water

Firstly, i am sorry that I still don't have any photos.  i've been so busy trying to navigate and push myself onwards that i keep forgetting to take any photos- will try much harder when i'm 'through the woods' and have more companions with me over the weekend.
I couldn't have asked for better weather today - beautiful sunshine which steadily got warmer until i was sweating nicely and wishing i had packed some sun cream (it seemed such a stupid thing to carry in October!)  I pushed my route back to where i ended up last night - although i have to confess that i chickened out of going back to the dodgy pub!  Starting from Finedon, i marched up the A6 towards Kettering full of positive thoughts and determination.  Lots of lorries tooting at me and people waving from their cars which cheered me up until I started thinking that perhaps they weren't waves of encouragement but disbelief that i had chosen to walk along the road! 
Problems started as i took a wrong turning in Kettering.  I have no paper maps (i'd need to carry a sack load of Ordnance Survey maps to cover my route!) on me but choosing to rely completely on my gps and route app on my phone - all of which uses a lot of battery.  i still don't know how i managed to get it wrong but the upshot was that i went even more wrong and found myself on the hard shoulder of a not-very-nice road.   Ben, patient and reassuring as ever, wisely told me to think again as it really looked dangerous on his computer.  My feet were really sore by this point and the blisters started to hurt.  The thought of walking all the way back and retracing my steps was too much.  So, rather than sitting on the side of the road sobbing quietly, i decided to retrace my steps by bus for a mere 5 minutes - i decided that taking the bus 'backwards' wasn't cheating and this was an emergency as i was losing time and daylight!  Still, i was disappointed in myself.  I went wrong again and wasted time trying to get back on my route out of Kettering (which I am sure is lovely but i do not intend to go back for a long time!)
I walked through the outskirts of Corby and passed lots of hoodies, all of which i wanted to hug as i saw the magic road sign for the Uppingham Road.  I had covered a lot of ground and my walking was turning into a shuffle as i tried to ignore the awful pain of the blisters.  Even switching on my now-fixed Ipod didn't make me go any faster and i limped along - not good considering how much more mileage i've got to do.  Following the signs to Rockingham, i took the decision to stop and not walk through any more pain or damage my feet any further.  I was about 10 miles behind schedule but the sight of the delightful looking local pub in Rockingham was too enticing.  Another day done but not quite - i must make up the time tomorrow and hope that with enough plasters, my feet will heal and not complain too much. Looking on the bright side,  I am making steady progress and aint beaten yet!

Wednesday 29 September 2010

Day 5 - much needed rest day!

When i started this blog, i fully intended to just keep a jolly update of my daily walks and that would be it.  However, the last 2 days have been so grim (and really quite funny as a result) that i think i better give an edited low down on my big adventure!  As i type, i feel like i'm recovering from taking part in a crash course in how-to-survive-in-the-open or how to train to be in the SAS!  Thank you to everyone for all their texts and emails - they really keep me going. I'm sorry that i haven't replied to a lot of them.  I've had to conserve my battery for the gps on my phone and by the time i've been picked up, I'm only fit for bed!
The original route for Day 3 - it looks so simple on paper! [click on map to enlarge]

Day 3 - Barton-le-Clay to Milton Ernest
Saying 'goodbye' to Charlie and Ben was difficult but i had my friend Bugs with me so i wasn't on my own.  we started in Bedfordshire's finest drizzle - low fog and constant rain all day.  Despite our rainproof, brilliant kit, we both got pretty damp in the morning and it set in for the rest of the day.  But the first bit of the walk was great and we congratulated ourselves on the fact that this was MUCH nicer than sitting at a desk and felt particularly sorry for all those people in a warm office.  We then hit the main Bedford Road which looked fine on google earth but, in reality, was  a nightmare.  The grass banks had grown so high that it was difficult to walk along, the traffic screamed pass with a lot of spray which made visibility bad.  All in all, after a few miles, we decided to dive down a foot path and try heading into Bedford cross country.  We didn't have a choice.  The alternative was too dangerous.  The path took us through a thick ploughed field and before long, we had so much heavy clay mud on us, that it became really hard to pick up our feet. I nearly toppled over and lost my balance with my rucksack on. The footpath then stopped at a completely impassable cluster of brambles so we decided to navigate around 2 more massive fields, getting steadily muddier (at this point we were on double rations of M&S 'Percy Pig' sweets and chocolate flapjacks).  Then, the footpath abruptly stopped and we found that it didn't tally with the map as a new set of roads were being built.  We had 2 options - go back across the fields (no way) or jump across a river (!)  Bugs, drawing on her experience as a girl guide, threw some bricks into the river and I waded across, jumped to the banks and scrambled up the muddy banks until there was mud up to my thighs (I never thought i'd type this but I love my waterproof trousers).  We then walked through the wasteland of new roads and through a fence which was marked 'DANGER No pedestrians - Deep Excavations' which we could still manage to find funny. The rest of the walk was tough as we tried to navigate along the lethal bedford roads and then, after drawing on our last bit of energy, we found that the end of the route was impassable on the A6.  We made the decision to stop as it was cold and getting dark.  Thank you Bugs for being such a trooper and sticking by me all day when you really could have got on to the nearest bus!  Another thank you to my cousins for rescuing us from the roundabout.  My morale was low and my legs were very painful by the end of the day but my fighting spirit still very much intact.
Day 4 route - In fact I finished at Finedon, 5 miles short of goal [click map to enlarge]

Day 4 - Oakley - Finedon (which should have been to Kettering but ...)
After yesterday's fiasco, Ben redesigned my route to take me off the awful A6.  It was a really lovely route cross country, passing through little villages and i felt my spirits lift.  This was what i was so looking forward to - the chance to see my country on foot and to take it all in and to just go for a (very) long walk!  but the problems started as i hit mile 10 and i could feel the dreaded blisters.  My water was running low and i chose to walk a mile out of my way to get water, more food and sit down.  I've found people to be really kind and, if i mention the walk, it opens lots of doors.  Thanks to the lovely librarian in Wollaston for letting me sit down and use her bathroom!  By now, i felt so grubby and i was just walking on automatic pilot.  I needed a boost so plugged into my Ipod and then with a sickening hum, that failed.  Oh dear - i needed a new lead.  In slight despair, I sat down on the side of the road exhausted.  Out of nowhere, a motorised wheelchair shot past and a lovely man tipped his hat at me shouting "keep going!"  That was all i needed to hear and i scooped myself up, giggling (nearly toppled over again - still getting used to my rucksack) and set on my way.  After calling Ben for some reassurance, I told myself  "every mile is money and it's just a case of one foot in front of the other - easy!"  to cut a long story short, i had to cross over the A45 dual carriageway (!) along the river, up another lethal road, navigate another cross country footpath, had failing battery and it was getting dark so found refuge in a dodgy pub just south of Kettering.  After lots of wolf whistling (quite cheered by that actually as i looked revolting!) and lots of comments, I said that i had walked from London for charity and all I wanted was a glass of ice cold coke (boy, did it taste good).  There was a silence and then a man came up to me, slapped me hard on the back, dug into his pockets and gave me £3 for the walk.  It just shows that it's true when people say 'the kindness of strangers'.  To be continued (hopefully with some photos)...........

Tuesday 28 September 2010

Days 3/4 - Barton le Clay to Finedon

For those of you following the blog, apologies for the lapse in updates. Mary is doing well but yesterday (Day 3) was long and tiring, involving several re-routes to avoid a section of the A6 which weren't safe to walk along. She had been aiming for Milton Ernest but ended up a couple of miles short in Oakley in failing light and the ever present rain. She will undoubtedly post her story of climbing through mud-filled ditches and close shaves with fast traffic in due course. It had been due to be an 18 mile day but the total mileage will have been well over 20.

She has changed todays (Day 4) route to take her on less busy roads. Speaking to her just now she is tired and blistered but approaching Finedon (about 5 miles short of Kettering) where she will stop for the day having walked just over 20 miles. It was another wet day.

Feel free to comment on any of these posts by clicking the comment button underneath this post. All words of encouragement welcome!

Sunday 26 September 2010

Day 2 - St Albans to Barton-le-Clay, 19 miles

Click on the map above to enlarge it

An appropriate roadsign!

Day 2 is 'in the bag'- less than 400 miles to go- hooray!  I did feel stronger today and all the muscles that hurt yesterday seemed to cope alright today - i just have to deal with a fresh lot of aching muscles tomorrow.  My neck is really sore and i am hobbling around like an old woman but nothing's broken.  The weather was a bit grim but i was kept going by Ben and Charlie by my side and plenty of singing. After stocking up on stodge in a cafe in Luton, we faced the rain and trudged up the A6.  My legs were very sore and I was hugely relieved to hit the last mile and to be met by my cousins in a lay by.  Roll on Day 3....
Pushing on through the drizzle

I chose the shortest route rather than the most scenic route...

Day 1 - Buckingham Palace to St Albans, 20 miles

Click on the map to enlarge it

Phew - Day One over and done with. A wonderful start in bright sunshine as we set off from the front gates of Buckingham Palace. Bit embarrassing being photographed by curious tourists wondering what all the fuss was about! Huge thanks to everyone who came to see me off but even bigger thanks to Ben and Charlie for walking with me. I had a really tough afternoon as my leg muscles decided to seize up and I didn't feel very well either. Ben and Charlie helped me out with my rucksack to lighten my load. After plenty of nurofen and sugary tea I just about crawled to the finishing line (St Albans station) It was such a boost crossing the M25 though and I knew that we had really left London behind. I am worried about what lies ahead of me but encouraged by the fact that I have an industrial sized packet of nurofen on me.
Setting off from Buckingham Palace in the sunshine

Saturday 18 September 2010

The countdown has begun..

Just back from the beautiful hills of Aberdeenshire after a lovely holiday with family and friends - plenty of eating and walking.  Here's a photo of one of  THE best views in Scotland - Glen Muick. The clouds descended and the skies opened a few minutes after this was taken.  After pretty much incessant rain all week, i now feel that i have thoroughly road tested my kit.  No further problems with my ankles so i am going to risk taking my much loved walking boots as they seem to have held up rather well. This time next week, i will have completed day 1 - oh joy.  I will be setting off with Ben and my brother Charlie (who has flown all the way over to London from Sydney) by my side for the first few days which will be a good start to my big adventure.   The challenge over the next few days is trying to finalise all the arrangements and pack up all my stuff.  Knowing that i have to carry it all on my back for 420 miles is a great incentive to pack light!

Wednesday 25 August 2010

I reach my target!


I can't believe it - i've reached my target of £10,000 and the money's still rolling in!  To anyone who is reading this and who has kindly donated to my walk,  a BIG thank you!  It is such a boost to me, my brother Charlie and my parents.  Right now, with my ankles slowly healing and only a month to go before i set off, it's just the sort of news i need to hear.  However, the legs are doing well and there is plenty of 'petrol in the tank'!  I just want to get on with it now and start ticking off miles (and, oh boy, there are a lot to tick off!)  There is so much to organise and time is flying by.  A huge thank you to my boyfriend Ben who is helping me get ready, planning the route and enduring endless training walks with me - and literally pushing me up the hills when i've run out of steam.  The other way i get up the steep bits when my legs are burning is thinking of my father and his courage - the best part of doing this walk is knowing that, in some small way, it will make a difference to him  and to all the other people who suffer from Lymphoma.  Roll on September....! 

Sunday 22 August 2010

My first 20 miler..

Oh dear - as I type, my ankles are burning!  We walked for 22 miles yesterday (Putney Bridge to sunny Weybridge) just to see what it would feel like.  Perfect weather and a lovely walk following the river.  Unfortunately, I hit mile 16 and my ankles started to swell up and blister like a heat rash- without going into gruesome detail, they look pretty nasty this morning!  if anyone has any good advice to offer me, please let me know.  Rather a worry seeing that there are only a few weeks to go before i head off.  The enormity of what i am taking on has now hit me- 20 miles is a long way and walking it day after day is going to be tough.  Apart from that my legs feel fine and the thought of raising money for such a good cause is spurring me on. I heard this quote last night and it made me feel much better.. 'The greatest danger for most of us lies not in setting our aim too high and falling short but in setting our aim too low and reaching it' (Michelangelo).

Tuesday 17 August 2010

One humid evening in London


Back in London and trying to step up the pace a bit - attempting to walk back from work most evenings which is about 8 miles.  Not sure if i'm actually getting any faster -tend to do a lot of stopping to admire the view and, oh yes, munch a flap jack!  Time is ticking alarmingly quickly and i must crack on and do my first 20 miler.....

Monday 9 August 2010

A Wet Training Walk!

Welcome to my first post! Training for my big walk has begun in earnest and we chose the wettest day here in Devon - I've officially road tested my kit and promised myself that I will NEVER forget to pack my waterproof trousers again! Lesson learnt.  I might as well have dived into the sea fully clothed!  The boots have held up nicely though so I reckon they will get me through the 420 mile trek.